We begin our tour half way up Keren Kayemet Street, in front of the Hebrew Gymnasia. The school was first
established in the Bucharian Quarter in 1909. In 1929, it was relocated to its present address and became the
first school in Jerusalem where boys and girls studied together.
W
Directly opposite this, is the house of Ezrachi Brisker one of the very first settlers of the neighborhood. His son
later told the story of how the family had one Saturday got dressed in their best clothes and set off for a picnic between the rocks
of the field behind the convent. In the midst of the picnic his father suddenly said, "This is our plot, and right
here we will build our house."
This land was purchased from the Greek Orthodox
Patriarchy, as was much of the land in Rechavia . As the new landowners had committed themselves to employing only Jewish labor, the construction was carried out mostly by the Work Brigades, whose tents were pitched not far away.
Yad Yitzchak Ben Tzvi
We cut through Rehavia, heading down Kuzari Lane, the little road next to Brisker's house. On crossing Elcharizi
Street we pass Kuzari #22.This beautiful house of Spanish design used to be the home of Dov Yosef,
the man who became known as the "Minister of Austerity." Dov Yosef moved to this modest location in the new Jewish
neighborhood after the riots of 1929. The house across the street, although of modest appearance, is more
significant.
In the yard next to the house, through the fence, one can see what was once the old shed.
This shed, one of the first
structures of Rehavia, was the home of the late President of the State of Israel, Yitzchak Ben-Zvi. In time, the
home of the late president became the Yad Ben-Zvi Institute for the Study of the History of Eretz Yizrael.
Returning to Kuzari Lane, we continue until we reach the small park and playground where the lane meets
Ramban Street (Rehavia's main street). As there were only a few neighborhood children in the early days,
the park was turned into a tennis court. As many of the players happened to be members of the neighborhood council, when
the lease was up, it was not so difficult for them to extend the tenancy. The park was re-established a long time after the
council chairman, Judge Gad Frumkin, had resigned in protest of the injustice to the children.
Gad Frumkin's House
Ramban Street #22, is on the corner of Ibn Ezra. Incorporated into Gad Frumkin's house were building styles as yet unseen in
Jerusalem. Sliding doors were used, and central heating was installed. However, the resident, a judge, had to wait several
years until the local engineers learned how to operate the system !
Frumkin called his house "Chavatzelet," in memory of his father's newspaper. The name still
stands proudly carved in stone above the entrance to the house. Frumkin named
the neighborhood, Rehavia, explaining that "God will expand our borders." In Ivrit rechav means 'wide'.
Our next site (Ramban #30) used to be the house of Dr. Arthur Rupin, head of the Zionist settlement
activities of the second and third Aliyah. This house has recently been renovated and redecorated, but his
name is still above the door. In return for their wonderful stonework, his wife Hanna gave the Work Brigades a
cow.
Machanayim House
After moving from his house in Nevi'im Street, the well known Zionist, Menachem Mendel Ussishkin, settled in Rehavia. Ussishkin did not change the name
of his house, and the stone plaque above the door to this day reads "Machanayim." Posthumously, a great honor was given to Ussishkin, when the street corner on Ramban was named after him.
Heading down Ussishkin Street, we arrive at house #1. This house is in a sorry state, and therefore the small guardroom to the right looks somewhat out of place. Before 1948 this house belonged to a Jewish clerk in the British administration . He was
one of those killed in the bombing of the King David Hotel. Later
some of Israel's Prime Ministers, including the
late Golda Meir, lived here.
Ancient Tomb
We continue across Ben Maimon Street walking along a shady path between two buildings. Where the path meets Alfasi Street, tucked away between the neighborhood's houses, is a Hasmonean-style tomb that predates the rest of Rehavia by about 2000 years. Note the inscription
dedicating the tomb to "Yasson" (Jason). The tomb was probably used till the time of Herod's rule.
We turn left into Alfasi and continue till we reach Radak Street. Turning right into Radak, and then let into Aza
Street, we head uphill to the corner of Arlozorov Street. On this corner is a building that resembles some of those
in Mea Shearim. In the 30s, a group of clerks, teachers, and laborers asked the architect Kotchinsky to plan
simple housing for them. Strongly influenced by the style of Mea Shearim, Kotchinsky designed a cluster of homes
around a central courtyard.
We turn left up Arlozorov and make our way back towards Ramban. On the corner of the two streets, is
Arlozorov #1. The exterior of the building, was designed by Krackauerv in 1935, and its original
Bauhaus style is patently clear in the simplicity of its grid like structure. Unfortunately, the recent refurbishment by present owner, Bank Leumi, has robbed this building of its informal title as Best
Examples of Bauhaus Architecture in Israel.
Who Was First?
Crossing Ramban, we turn right and make our way to Ramban #14. This was the house of the architect Yelin.
He, together with his partner, designed and built many of the neighborhood's houses. His house is one of a number that claim to be the very first house in Rehavia.
Finally we come to Rehavia's windmill and return to the situation that made Rehavia, as we know it, possible.
The Greek
Orthodox Patriarchy's were the original owners of this land, and much of Rehavia's land. When the Patriarchy fell into a black financial period, they found it necessary to sell some land. It was the Patriarchy that built the windmill at the end of the
19th century.
During the 1930s, the windmill was inhabited by the architect Mendelsohn. Today it houses a small
commercial center, while carefully preserving the original structure. We can now sit and relax over a cup of tea
or coffee and a slice of cake, resting our legs from the streets and lanes of Rehavia, before we head back to
real life...