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MERON
The Tomb of Shimon bar Yochai
Mystics and Merchants
Click pictures to see larger versions.

Meron is a tiny town nestled in the mountains in the North of Israel. Its claim to fame is that several Talmudic sages are buried there, including Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai, the alleged author of the Zohar, the central book of Kabbalah (the Jewish mystical tradition). Throughout the year, people come to pray at the graves in the merit of those buried there, but on Lag Ba'Omer, the anniversary of the death of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai, tens of thousands crowd into town for the festivities.

Halva or Sunhats Anyone?

Food for the Body and the Soul

Makeshift stands line the roads up to the tombs. Some sell Middle Eastern pastries, others copies of the Zohar, the book of Kabbalah that was allegedly authored by Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai.

This stand offers several segulot (charms) that are supposed to act as spiritual aids. Although not a central part of traditional Judaism, the concept of amulets, and other spiritual "first-aid" does exist. Against the Evil EyeHowever, most rabbinic authorities maintain that there are no shortcuts to a spiritual life. Hard work both in interpersonal relationships and those between man and God are necessary. Others maintain about segulot: "It can't hurt!" The packets contain various fragrant herbs used in religious practice. The red strings and blue glass eyes are supposed to ward against the "Evil Eye" -- a negative spiritual force, often created by jealousy. The small Sefer Tehillim Leather Pouch Salesman (psalms) is for reading because there is believed to be a protective benefit in holy books. This man sells leather pouches for tehillim.

Hotline to God

Even before the "real crowds" arrive, Meron is bustling. Inside the tombs, the men's and women's sections are filled with people praying. They are NOT -- as could be misconstrued -- praying TO the Next to the Gravesages (as Catholics may pray to a saint), but rather to God, in the hopes that the zechut (merit) of the tzaddik (righteous person) will aid in the reception of their prayers.

This photo was taken early in the day, BEFORE the crowds arrived. Four times this number of people pack themselves into the tiny room which is the closest accessible point to the actual burial site.

Courageous Campers

Mea Sha'arim Meets Woodstock

Meron quickly assumes a festive atmosphere quite unlike any other. In the woods around the town, campsites are filled with mainly Sephardic Jews. Some tents have televisions, electricity and running water. The frangrance of roasting shish-kebab wafts upwards toward the tombs. Some have the custom to make a seudat hodayah (thanksgiving meal) and to slaughter a lamb and roast it. Further up the road, there is a makeshift butcher station that provides kosher slaughter in accordance with Biblical commandments.

Milling Around Outside the Tomb The crowds are mixed. Hassidim and Sephardim (both of which are more involved with the study of mystical texts than the general population) make up the bulk of the visitors, but there are Jews of all other types and even curious tourists. For some, this is a deeply spiritual event, where the symbolism of the bonfires will be seen against the deeper context of Judaism's mystical traditions, which they have been studying. Some come to experience the unity of thousands of Jews dancing, singing and praying together. And for others, Lag Ba'Omer is just a fun place to hang out and Lining Up for a Good Viewdrink in the energy.

The Main Event

Hours before sunset, people line up along the edge of roof to get a good view of the lighting of the pyre. These boys are Boyaner Hassidim, one of the Hassidic groups in good attendance in Meron on Lag Preparing the PyreB'Omer. Some people save their leftover olive oil from Chanukah to burn the pyre at Meron. The bags on this pyre are full of clothing which will be burned.

It is now nightfall and the pyre has been lit. The music is loud and the crowd sings along. These people are looking at their Rebbe, the Rebbe of Boyan, The Night is Youngwho watches the flames from the rooftop above them. It is almost impossible to move except as one body. The floodlights and loudspeakers run through the night and the people dance until dawn.

Many return to their hometowns the next day. Others remain in Meron, resting from their exertions and breathing the clean mountain air. Within a few days after the event, the crowds are gone, the stands have been taken down, and even most of the refuse left behind has been cleaned up. Just a lingering smell of smoke remains as a witness that another Lag B'Omer has gone by.

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Acknowledgements:

Dovid Gross, Meron photography



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